Friday, May 7, 2010

Pastéis Português

Contrary to my strong need to move to Sevilla and Praha, I did not feel the same pressing need move to Lisboa.  But I don't think that takes away from the fact that I truly loved it

Lisboa is an interesting city.  Its beautiful with its classic architecture, brightly painted buildings and unique azulejo tile work.  But on the other hand, its visibly poorer than its other Western European counterparts, which can be seen in its deteriorating facades and felt in a certain nostalgia.  This nostalgia, while not quite as palpable, reminded me a bit of Buenos Aires and the longing for its illustrious past.  

I will admit right off the bat that I wish I had gotten to know Portugal and its culture a little better.  Because it was Spain's Semana Santa, Portugal was overrun with Spanish tourists.  I think I actually interacted with more Spanish people than Portuguese people!  Plus I tried to cram in as much as possible into my four days there, leaving little time to just be and experience my surroundings.  However, I did enjoy my trip a lot and even for reasons that I can't explain.

I decided to do this one on my own, meaning no tours or guides, just my research and great (bad?) sense of direction.  Before my trip I did a lot of reading and researching about Lisboa and compiled a handy guide for myself of things I wanted to see and do (big dork, I know).  Then I set out on my fist day there with my guide and map, feeling independent and ready to take on Lisboa!  

My first stop was Rossio Square.  I decided to walk and after many wrong turns and general frustrations, I arrived 40 minutes later.  As I would later find, the square was only five minutes from my hostel.  Oh details, details...at least I was able to take advantage of the situation by walking around the city more.  Afterwards I went to a part of the city called Belém, which has several monuments to Portugal's maritime past.  Also included in this area is the famed Pastéis de Belém - a bakery/cafe with a centuries old recipe for little custard tarts.  The line was literally out the door and nearly around the corner!  But it was definitely worth the wait.  The pastries were so good that I went twice!  After a day of sight seeing I went to dinner and to see a Fado show at Sehnor Vinho.  This is Lisboa's most sophisticated Fado house, in part because it was founded by one of Lisboa's most famous Fado singers, Maria da Fé.  Fado is traditional Portuguese music that involves guitars and a singer - and I loved it!

The next day I took a day trip to Sintra, a small village about 40 minutes outside of Lisboa.  The village itself is cute and quaint, but the real attraction is that there are several palaces and castles located here.  To be honest, I thought this part of my trip was going to be a disaster because nothing was unfolding the way I'd planned (and I NEED to have things according to schedule lol).  But at the end of the day, I think it turned out just right.  I walked around the village and ate more pastries (delicious), visited a palace and explored the Moorish castle, which offered spectacular views of Sintra, the Portuguese landscape and the coast.  

I also went to Cabo da Roca, which is the most western point of Europe.  At the risk of sounding cliched, it was breathtaking.  A funny thing also happened at the western most point of Europe.  I saw some girls climbing on some rocks down a beaten path and decided it might be a good idea to check it out for more beautiful views.  So, with the power derived from my converse sneakers, I suddenly felt the confidence to take off my blazer and climb some rocks.  Surprisingly, it worked.  But after I enjoyed the view and took some pictures, I cursed my self all the way back up to my starting point.  As it turns out, getting down had been the easy part, but returning proved to be a...(I don't think it's necessary for me to finish this sentence).  

On my last day in Lisboa I took the Santa Justa elevator - which looks similar to the Eiffel Tower - up to see the view of Lisboa and to explore a different part of the city.  I also visited Lisboa's castle, which sits in the mountains overlooking the city with beautiful views - a great way to bid adieu to meu querido Portugal (my dear Portugal).  

Beautiful Lisboa


Rossio Square

Pastéis de Belém has delicious


Sintra

The view from the Moorish castle


Cabo da Roca: the Western most point in Europe.

The lighthouse at Cabo da Roca
Posing after my daring climb ;)


Fado in Sehnor Vinho

Besitos,
B

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